Walking tour of Gornji Grad (Upper Town) (pick up a copy of city walks from the Tourist Office)
Start at Trg Bana J Jelacica (Ban Jelacic was the 19th Century viceroy who led Croatian troops against Hungary). The statue of Jelacic adorned the square from 1866 to 1947 (Tito had it removed) and then was restored in 1990.
Go up hill on Bakaca to Kaptol Square (dominated by the Cathedral of the Assumption, formerly known as St Sophia’a (13th century). See the Durer side altar, marble altars, statues, adn pulpit. Turn left from the Cathedral into a narrow passage that leads to Dolac (fruit and eggs market – daily). Leave the market at the north end, pass thru Opatovina Ulica (flower market) with its statue of Petrica Kerempuh.
Turn left onto Skalinska Ulica, then left on Tkalcica (with lively cafes and restaurants). A short passage brings you to Radic Ulica. About 100m up the street, take the passage to the left to the Stone Gate (Eastern Gate to the medieval Gradec town) — a fire(1731) destroyed all of the gate except the painting– revered as a shrine with magical powers. Turn right and proceed up Opaticka Ulica to the City Museum. From here go downhill along Demetrova and bear left on Mletacka to the Mestrovic Studio (collection of sculptor Mestrovic’s works)
Continue downhill on Demetrova, turn left on Brezov and continue downhill on Matoseva, past the Historical Museum. Walk along Freud towards Trg Svety Marka, the square around St Mark’s Church with its unique tiled roof(1880). The tiles on the left depict the coat of arms of Croatia, Dalmatia, and Slovenia, while the emblem of Zagreb is on the right side.
The Eastern side of the square contains the Croatia Sabov (Parliament). Opposite this is Banski dvori (Ben’s Palace), now the presidential palace (Guard changing ceremony at noon on Sat & Sun)
Leave the square by Cirilovnetodska Ulica, past the stone head representing Matiga Gubes, leader of a peasant rebellion, beheaded in Trg Svetry Marka. At #5 is Old City Hall. Continue to Jesuitski Trg. On the Eastern side is Galerija Kloviceri Dvori. Note the fountain with the “Fisherman with Snake” sculpture.
South of the square, you come to Katarina Trg with its Church of St Catherine (check out the interior). Take the Dverce passage at the south end to the Latrscak Tower (13th century). The cannon is fired every day at noon. Climb the tower for a sweeping view of the city. From the tower, take a walk on the Strzsmajerov promenade before taking the funicular down to the Lower Town. Check out the Botanical Gardens at the southern end of the Lower Town